I will be installing a product that insulates and finishes in one step.
A finished basement foundation wall is another area where ventilation is critical. I have completed this work and am preparing to insulate and finish the wall.
#Romex connector install
Unlike the attic where ventilation is critical, here you want to air seal first with caulking, install 2" EPS foam on the rim joist between each floor joist and finish around the edges with spray foam. Uninsulated, it is as if you have a window ajar all year round. After also demolishing the ceiling I discovered that the sill plate and rim joist were not insulated and this is a key area of unwanted air exchange in the home. I removed 1/2" white "Styrofoam" (R value approx 1.5), wood strapping, vapour barrier, and drywall. Recently, while renovating the basement I discovered condensation behind the drywall on the foundation wall.
This made a world of difference and the HVAC equipment no longer struggles to maintain a comfortable inside temperature. My roofing contractors installed 6 roof vents along the peak when they did the roof and I upgraded the attic insulation to R48. This caused condensation in the attic space that eventually dry-rotted the underside of the plywood sheathing of the roof. My 1977 brick bungalow had R8 fibreglass batt with black paper backing in the attic and the space was inadequately ventilated. That being said, our winters are brutally cold and snowy, and the days very short. We usually experience only a few summer days with the humidex pushing the temperature close to the 40C range necessitating the use of AC.
#Romex connector windows
We do enjoy spectacular summer weather with pleasant night time temperatures that are perfect for sleeping with the windows open. I live in the Golden Horseshoe of Southern Ontario, Canada. It sounds like I am understanding this correctly, according to Erica's post. (Even though you would probably forget the holes are there eventually, it is just tacky) I will draw you a picture in a bit. I DON'T want to make it look like a remodel on a bran new house or put big patched holes in the back of the cabinets. There is a lot of electrical boxes, insulation, and wood blocking in the wall to get in the way for fishing wires through the lower cabinets, but I think we can get lucky with a little plan. Since I see no new pictures of the area, I will assume that all my usual tricks for running the wire to the other cabinet via the 'preferred' route fall a hair short.
Therefore, I highly suggest the 'hard wired' dimmer in the first example that works with a dimmer at the wall switch location. For this reason, I would put in a little more lumens of undercabinet lighting than you will normally want and make sure to place the lights near the front of the cabinets to give more direct light on any tasks you ate performing on that counter surface. Because of where your recessed in the ceiling are (badly) placed and scarce, they will surely cast shadows when working at the outside counter. This is not ideal for you because you would need to turn on the switch at the wall and then go over to the cabinets to set the light level. The black switch is a thin in-line dimmer pad for use in the 'plug-in' type method. Aerove, yes, the goal is to get everything to work from the one switch location you already have.
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